Northern Cambodia
Siem Reap
Cha Ong waterfall.
Siem Reap is nestled between rice paddies and stretched along the Siem Reap River; this small provincial capital serves as the gateway to the millennium-old temple ruins of the Khmer Empire. The town is where you will stay during your visit to Angkor; it is actually a cluster of old villages, which originally developed around individual pagodas and later overlaid with a French colonial-era center. Nowadays, Siem Reap offers a wide range of hotels, restaurants, pubs and shops including several upscale hotels and dozens of budget guesthouses. Often missed are the many opportunities to experience traditional Cambodia with ‘Apsara’ dance performances, craft shops and silk farms, road tours through rice paddy countryside, boat trips on the great Tonle Sap Lake to fishing villages, and visits to the bird sanctuary.
The Angkor Archaeological Park
The Angkor Archaeological Park designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is the spiritual heart and identity of the Khmer people. It encompasses dozens of temple ruins including Bayon, Banteay Srey and the legendary Angkor Wat whose artistic and archaeological significance and visual impact put it in a class with the Pyramids, Machu Picchu, the Parthenon, the Coliseum and the Taj Mahal. Temples of Angkor were built between the 7th and 12th centuries when Khmer civilization was at its height in extraordinary creativity. It is still the cultural home of the Khmer people and one of the ancient wonders of the world.
Its magnificent architecture reveals the Khmer's strong belief in Hinduism and Buddhism. Unlike many other world-class monuments, the ruins of Angkor are as yet unspoiled by over-development. This may not be true in a couple of years. Without witnessing them at first hand it is impossible to gauge the enormity of task faced by the builders of the time. The fact the structures at Angkor are so complete after all this time is further testament to the advanced construction techniques employed more than a millennium ago. Though the major temples are extensively visited these days, it is still possible get away from the crowds, to explore the area and discover Angkor.
Most people recommend visiting these sites several times to appreciate their grandeur. Angkor Wat is best visited in the afternoon when the sinking sun lights up its west-facing main gate. Many tourists also come just before dawn to see the first light bounce off the magnificent temple when the sun emerges above the horizon. Those who have seen it in the moonlight say it’s a magical experience but tight security has since been imposed to prevent looting and tourists are not allowed to stay on after dark.
To visit the park, two circuits are proposed. The Small Circuit which takes you in several of the major and minor temples in the area. It begins at Angkor Wat and runs for 17 kilometers (11 miles) taking you to the major elements of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Kdei, and some of the minor but interesting temples such as the Baphoun, the Terrace of the Leper King, the Terrace of the Elephants, the Twelve Prasats, Spean Thma and Sras Srang.
The 26-kilometer (16-mile) Grand Circuit goes through the sites of the Small Circuit and extends into other appealing monuments such as Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean, Ta Som and Preah Rup. It is especially recommended for anyone spending three or more days in the complex. The Big Circuit encompasses a good representation of the rich variety of architecture found here.
Angkor Thom was built by Cambodia's greatest builder, Jayavarman VII. This 10-square-kilometer (4-square-mile) city is enclosed by an eight 8-meter (26-foot) high wall and encircled by a 100-meter (328-foot) moat said to have been inhabited by fierce crocodiles. There are five 20-meter (65-foot-high) gates located in the city side walls. The moat are flanked with the statues of 54 gods on the left and 54 devils on the right, all seemingly engaged in a game of war.
The Bayon Temple is located in the heart of Angkor Thom. The 54-tower temple is a quite remarkable sight. Initially the temple seems to be a shapeless mass of gray and brown stone but as one approaches one realizes that each of the towers is in fact carved and there are more than 200 huge enigmatic faces of Avalokitesharva bearing down on you wherever you turn. Bayon is easily the most popular sight after Angkor Wat and no visit is complete without a trip to this amazing and unique temple.
The Ta Prohm Monastery was built in the late 12th century; it is unforgettable due to the massive trees with thick roots that entangle the walls. They were left here intentionally by the archeologists working on the site. While clearing back the forest it was decided to leave them in place to serve as a reminder of how the original discovers found it and other temples. Many of the trees have grown around and through the remains, and soar high above the temple. This temple, along with those of the Bayon and Angkor Thom form the core of any visit to Siem Reap.
The Phnom Bakheng Temple located on a hill served as the first city of Angkor. The capital offers panoramic views of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the surrounding areas. It is best visited in the late afternoon for a spectacular sunset or in the early morning for sunrise over Angkor Wat.
The Banteay Srei Temple stands apart for the quality of its construction and decoration. Its pink sandstone walls are decorated with what some consider the best carving of all; it is still in an amazing state of preservation. Built in 967 and dedicated to Brahma it is located 25 kilometers (16 miles) north of Angkor Wat.
The Phnom Kulen site is widely regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer empire. This hilltop site has the country's largest reclining Buddha. Its access is rather difficult, especially in the rainy season. If you get there, make sure you see the stunning River of 1000 Lingas where over 1000 small carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed. Further downstream larger blocks of stone are carved with Apsaras, Vishnu, and other figures. All the sandstone used in the construction of Angkor was quarried here.
The Roluos Group was the capital of Indravarman I from 877 to 889. These were the first temples built to last and are made of brick with some carved plaster reliefs. The group is made up of the three temples of Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei. Many of the later temples in Angkor are based on these earlier temples.
Bokor National Park
Bokor National Park is one of Cambodia's premier protected areas. Besides a refreshingly cool climate, the park possesses secluded waterfalls, commanding ocean views and elusive animals like tigers and elephants. It includes also an abandoned colonial French hill station that has a genuine ghost-town feel, especially when thick mists envelope the skeletons of the original structures.
Kirirom National Park
Kirirom National Park is set amid elevated pine forests and offers some small waterfalls and decent walking trails. Hook up with a ranger for a two-hour hike up to Phnom Dat Chivit (End of the World Mountain) where an abrupt cliff face offers an unbroken view of the western mountain ranges. It's one of the few national parks to have a community tourism program and proceeds from its educational walks are pumped back into the community.
Battambang
Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest city. It is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Battambang used to be off the map for road travelers, but facilities have been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples and villages.